Glass? In fine jewelry? 

Glass may not be the first material that comes to mind when you think of fine jewelry, but it has played a surprisingly glamorous and important role in jewelry design for centuries. From the ethereal glow of camphor glass to the brilliance of meticulously crafted paste gemstones, glass has been used to mimic, enhance, and even surpass the beauty of natural gems from rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and beyond. Whether as an affordable alternative to diamonds or as an artistic statement all on its own, glass has carved out a fascinating niche in jewelry history.

With its roots in ancient Rome, glass has played a vital role in jewelry history that eventually evolved into such stunning works of wearable art like the intricate mourning jewelry of the Victorian era to the bold creations of the Art Deco period. 

Whether you’re a seasoned collector or just beginning to explore antique jewelry, understanding glass’s role in these periods will deepen your appreciation for the artistry and innovation that defines glass jewelry design.

Art Deco Diamond and Camphor Glass Necklace // Walton's Jewelry

Camphor Glass and Rock Crystal in Victorian and Art Deco Jewelry

Perhaps the most distinctive use of glass in jewelry, camphor glass gained widespread popularity during the Art Deco period. It is favored for its frosted, glowing material that evokes the soft, dreamy light of moonlit evenings.

How Camphor Glass Is Made

The signature frosted look of camphor glass is achieved through an acid-etching process. The glass is treated with hydrofluoric acid, which subtly corrodes the surface, creating a soft, velvety finish that diffuses light beautifully. This process mimics the natural effect of camphor crystals, a waxy substance derived from the camphor tree, which is how the glass got its name.

While camphor glass became iconic in the 1920s and 1930s, its use actually dates back to the late Victorian and Edwardian eras, when jewelers began experimenting with etched and frosted glass effects. However, it was in the Art Deco period that camphor glass truly flourished, often set in filigree-adorned white gold or sterling silver and accented with tiny, sparkling diamonds. During the Great Depression, when many people couldn't afford genuine gemstones, camphor glass offered an affordable yet stunning alternative.

Edwardian Heart-Shaped Rock Crystal and Diamond Necklace // Walton's Jewelry

Before camphor glass, rock crystal (a naturally occurring, clear quartz) was widely used in jewelry to achieve a similar effect. Rock crystal was popular in the Georgian and Victorian periods, often carved into bead and reverse intaglios or used to encase hair and miniature portraits in mourning jewelry. Rock crystal had a natural translucency that was admired for its soft, glowing appearance. 

While today camphor glass is recognized for its distinctive beauty as a highly desirable material, its origins—like most examples of glass in jewelry—began during the Georgian period as means of simulating another gemstone (in this case, etched rock crystal). 

Jewelry Paste in Antique Jewelry

Long before the advent of modern synthetic gemstones, jewelers had to get creative when replicating the brilliance of diamonds and colored gems. Enter paste jewelry, a type of leaded glass that could be cut and polished to sparkle much like natural gemstones. Though paste glass originated during the Georgian period, skilled Victorian jewelers took the imitation gems to new levels of sophistication. High-quality paste stones were often set in precious metals and sometimes backed with foil to further intensify their brilliance.

Victorian Silver and Paste Sword Brooch // Walton's Jewelry

Paste jewelry dates back to the 18th century, particularly in France, where jewelers developed a secret recipe for creating an exceptionally high-quality glass that could be faceted like gemstones. The technique was so refined that even aristocrats and royalty adorned themselves with paste jewels, sometimes opting for them instead of real gemstones when traveling or attending candlelit evening events where the difference between real and imitation was virtually impossible to distinguish.

What made paste so desirable was its versatility. Unlike natural gemstones, which are limited by what the earth provides, paste could be made in virtually any color, allowing jewelers to create dazzling pieces that rivaled the finest emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and diamonds.

The Role of Glass in Imitation Gemstones

Glassmakers worked diligently to master their ability to mimic specific gemstones and create more accessible options for jewelry collectors of the time. Glass allowed for unparalleled creativity in jewelry design. It offered vibrant hues, optical illusions, and affordability without sacrificing beauty. Whether used to mimic nature or as a statement material in its own right, glass played a crucial role in shaping the jewelry industry. 

French Jet and the Significance of Jet in Jewelry

Portrait of Princess Helena (1846-1923) by Anton Hahnisch; Princess Helena in mourning for her grandmother, the Duchess of Kent, who had died on 16 March. She wears a black evening dress with a locket suspended from a black ribbon around her neck and jet hoop earrings. // Source: Wikimedia Commons

The significance of mourning jewelry is often credited for the rise in popularity of jet, a fossilized form of lignite coal. Queen Victoria's prolonged period of mourning after Prince Albert's death made jet jewelry a staple of somber yet elegant attire, worn as a symbol of grief and remembrance.

However, true jet was expensive and time-consuming to source and carve, so French artisans developed French Jet, a high-quality black glass alternative. Unlike genuine jet, which is lightweight and warm to the touch, French Jet has a heavier, cool feel and a glossier surface. It became widely used in the late 19th and early 20th centuries for beaded necklaces, earrings, and brooches, providing an affordable and equally stunning alternative to the real thing. 

Even outside of mourning traditions, jet and French Jet remained fashionable well into the Art Deco period, incorporated into bold, geometric jewelry designs. Today, both materials are highly collectible, with French Jet pieces being particularly prized for their craftsmanship and historical significance.

At Walton’s Jewelry, we have more than 50 years of experience serving Historic Downtown Franklin and the greater Nashville community. Each member of our team has trained at The Gemological Institute of America and has a deep passion for preserving the history and beauty of antique jewelry. Whether you are a Tennessee local looking to stop by our showroom, or prefer to view our selection virtually, we invite you to explore our newest arrivals and reach out with any questions you may have.