Portrait of Princess Charlotte of Wales (1817) – George Dawe // Princess Charlotte, the only child of King George IV, is depicted wearing flowers in her hair. While not directly associated with jewelry, the flowers could represent specific meanings, as floral symbolism was often used in royal portraits.  // Source: Wikimedia Commons

In the world of Victorian sentimentality and symbolism, words weren't always necessary to express love, devotion, or even heartbreak. Instead, secret messages were woven into the very jewelry people wore, whispering sentiments through carefully arranged gemstones and delicately chosen flowers. This was a time when emotions were often restrained by social customs, yet sentimentality flourished in subtle, symbolic ways. From floriography to acrostics and lover’s eye jewelry, sophisticated men and women embraced a private sense of self-expression marked by the social pressures of propriety. 

While there is certainly a playful allure to telling one’s story through cleverly coded messages today, these forms of communication serve as powerful windows into the past as well as the artistic and linguistic innovations of women who were typically constrained in their speech elsewhere.

Acrostic Jewelry and the “Regard” Ring

One of the most charming—and often overlooked—examples of this ingenuity is acrostic jewelry. These intricate pieces transformed gemstones into coded messages, allowing wearers to keep their affections both private and elegantly displayed. First popularized in the early 19th century by French jewelers (notably Jean-Baptiste Mellerio, a favorite of Napoleon), acrostic jewelry became a romantic way to express affection, commemorate loved ones, or even send discreet messages between secret lovers.

While acrostic jewelry originated in the Georgian era, it flourished in the Victorian period, when Queen Victoria’s own love for sentimental adornments set the tone for the era’s fashion.  Acrostic jewelry uses the first letter of each gemstone to spell out a word or phrase. The most well-known example is "REGARD"—a common inscription in Victorian jewelry, spelled using Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, and Diamond.

Edwardian Tourmaline, Citrine, Amethyst, and Aquamarine Bracelet // Walton's Jewelry

Victorian Opal and Moonstone Ring // Walton's Jewelry

With a little creativity, it’s easy to see how a three-stone ring set with moonstones and opal could become a loving tribute to MOM with her name written all over it; or how a sapphire and diamond pendant could be a cherished keepsake from a vacation to San Diego. Regard rings may have diminished in popularity over the years, but clever jewelry collectors have upheld the tradition with a personalized twist for the modern day making the possibilities endless.

The Empress Eugénie Surrounded by Her Ladies-in-Waiting (1855) – Franz Xaver Winterhalter // The ladies in this painting wear gowns adorned with floral embroidery, and some have floral-inspired brooches or tiaras. // Source: Wikimedia Commons

Victorian Floriography in Jewelry

Using “the language of flowers” (or floriography as it's more technically known) was popular during the Victorian era when lovers sent bouquets to share their feelings without saying a word. 

Some of the most commonly used flowers in Victorian jewelry and love tokens included:

• Forget-Me-Nots - A promise of eternal love and remembrance.
• Violets - A symbol of modesty and faithfulness.
• Roses - Different colors carried different meanings: red for passionate love, pink for admiration, white for purity, and yellow for friendship (or, occasionally, jealousy!).
• Lily of the Valley - Signifying sweetness and a return to happiness.
• Pansies - From the French pensée, meaning “thought,” given as a sign that the giver was thinking of the recipient.

Victorian Black Jade and Seed Pearl Lily of the Valley Bracelet // Walton's Jewelry

Victorian Sapphire and Pearl Forget-Me-Not Lavalier Pendant // Walton's Jewelry

There are countless ways to add a touch of romantic expression to your jewelry wardrobe using floriography, from pieces that are reminiscent of a wedding bouquet to ones that represent a loved one through their birth month flower (yes, that’s a thing!)

Much like birthstones, botanicals had their own Victorian era poems to serve as mnemonics for remembering the qualities they supposedly embodied which were shared in widely popular manuals on floriography. H.G. Adams shares the following example in his Oriental Textbook and Language of Flowers (1851):

The Wild Thyme for activity,
The fav’rite of the busy bee;
The pungent seasoning that excites
Dull, epicurean appetites.

Love, Loss, and Sentimentality in Victorian Jewelry

Victorian romance wasn’t just about declarations of love—it also carried profound expressions of grief and devotion. Mourning jewelry, often adorned with black enamel, jet, or woven locks of hair, held deep sentimental value. Floriography and acrostic messages found their way into mourning pieces, ensuring that love endured beyond a lifetime.

Even Queen Victoria herself was known for her devotion to sentimental jewelry, especially after the loss of Prince Albert. She popularized the use of mourning jewelry, often incorporating acrostic messages and floral symbols to honor his memory.

While acrostic jewelry and floriography peaked in popularity during the 19th century, their romantic legacy endures. Next time you come across a vintage ring with a curious arrangement of gemstones or an antique locket adorned with delicate floral engravings, take a closer look—you may just uncover a love letter from the past, written in the secret language of Victorian romance.

At Walton’s Jewelry, we have more than 50 years of experience serving Historic Downtown Franklin and the greater Nashville community. Each member of our team has trained at The Gemological Institute of America and has a deep passion for preserving the history and beauty of antique jewelry. Whether you are a Tennessee local looking to stop by our showroom, or prefer to view our selection virtually, we invite you to explore our newest arrivals and reach out with any questions you may have.