Every piece of antique jewelry tells a story, not only of its wearer, but of the moment in history that shaped its creation. From the romantic sentimentality of the Victorian era to the architectural glamour of the Art Deco period, design has long reflected the ideals, innovations, and artistry of its age.

This guide highlights the defining styles, motifs, and materials that have graced fine jewelry across generations. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or newly captivated by the world of antique and estate pieces, these selections from our GIA-trained staff offer a glimpse into the beautiful craftsmanship and enduring cultural spirit that continue to make historic jewelry so irresistibly collectible today. 

1. Old Mine and Old European Cut Diamonds

Timeless and romantic, these hand-cut styles have seen a massive resurgence thanks to Tennessee icon Taylor Swift’s vintage-inspired engagement ring. Read more about antique diamond and gemstone cuts here.

2. Etruscan Revival

These Victorian era treasures were inspired by ancient goldwork, featuring granulation, twisted wire, and archaeological motifs. 

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3. Brooches and Pins

Typically worn on a lapel, brooches served as symbols of love, power, and social status, adorning monarchs and fashionable individuals alike throughout history. 

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4. Snake Jewelry

Symbolizing eternal love and wisdom, often in gold, snake jewelry has been en vogue since Queen Victoria’s famed engagement ring featured an emerald-encrusted serpent.

5. Micro-Mosaic Jewelry

Tiny glass, ceramic, or shell tesserae forming intricate images or patterns, often with botanical or architectural motifs, were popularized as travel souvenirs among wealthy Europeans near the turn of the century.

6. Dangle Earrings

With their eye-catching movement and dramatic flair, the right pair of dangle earrings can frame your face and elevate your look.

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7. Yellow Gold

The dominant metal of the Victorian era, yellow gold, remains prized for its timeless appeal and warm hue, though slight variations in antique coloring should be expected. Learn more about the standards of gold and its coloring here.

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8. Charms, Fobs, and Pendants

We often associate charms with bracelets, fobs with watches, and pendants with necklaces. Call them what you will, they add an extra personal dash of style.

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9. Cameos & Intaglios

Hand-carved gemstones, such as carnelian, moonstone, sardonyx, or shells depicting classical figures or mythological scenes.

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10. Sapphire Jewelry

With their endless color variety and excellent durability, it's easy to see beyond the blue and understand why sapphires are so much more than "just" September's birthstone.

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11. Mourning Jewelry

Crafted in black enamel, jet, or onyx and often containing memorial inscriptions, this style was popularized after the death of Queen Victoria’s beloved husband. Learn more about the history of Mourning Jewelry here.

12. Stacking Rings and Bands

From antique wedding bands to vintage-inspired stacking rings, these are an endlessly versatile and sophisticated way to add a touch of personality.

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13. Platinum Filigree

Favored for its strength and bright white color, platinum allowed for delicate openwork designs thanks to innovation in jewelry machining.

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14. Lockets

Personal keepsakes worn close to the heart, containing photos, miniature paintings, and other precious mementos.

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15. Enamel Work

Richly colored, used in sentimental lockets and brooches, from champlevé to basse-taille techniques.

16. Birthstone Jewelry

Though the practice originally dates back thousands of years, the sentimental Victorians brought birthstone jewelry to new heights in popularity and style. Learn more about the history of birthstones and find your gem here.

17. Pearls

 Frequently used in sentimental jewelry such as bridal pieces and even mourning jewelry, pearls symbolized purity and dedication.

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18. Star and Crescent Jewelry

Celestial themes symbolizing guidance, hope, and romantic destiny have remained popular since the Victorian era.

19, Acrostic Jewelry

Popular in the Victorian era, these pieces featured gemstones arranged so the first letter of each spelled out a secret message (e.g., “REGARD” or “DEAREST”). Learn more about acrostic jewelry and other fashion codes of the Victorian era here.

20. Geometric Motifs

Chevron, zigzag, and stepped designs made possible by advances in technology and inspired by the architecture of the Machine Age.

21. Convertible Jewelry

Ingeniously designed pieces that transformed from necklace to brooch or bracelet.

22. White Gold

Introduced as a bright, modern alternative to platinum during the 1920s, this shade of gold became a hallmark of the era.

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23. Fancy Colored Diamonds

From vibrant canary yellow to warmly elegant champagne, rich, smoky browns, and many more colors. Diamonds are still a girl’s best friend. Learn more about fancy colored diamonds here.

24. Heart Motifs

Often paired with arrows, knots, or lockets, hearts are a ubiquitous symbol of love and sentimentality, and were especially popular in the Victorian era. 

25. Garnet Jewelry

A favorite around our showroom and throughout most of human history, this gem is one of the best-kept secrets for those who love bold colors. 

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At Walton’s Jewelry, we have more than 50 years of experience serving Historic Downtown Franklin and the greater Nashville community. Each member of our team has trained at The Gemological Institute of America and has a deep passion for preserving the history and beauty of antique jewelry. Whether you are a Tennessee local looking to stop by our showroom or prefer to view our selection virtually, we invite you to explore our newest arrivals and reach out with any questions you may have.