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An Essential Look at Edwardian Jewelry

An Essential Look at Edwardian Jewelry

There's nothing quite like the elegance and extravagance of Edwardian jewelry...

For antique jewelry collectors and enthusiasts, Edwardian pieces represent the pinnacle of early 20th-century craftsmanship. It was a fashionable moment of opulence characterized by its intricate designs, the extensive use of platinum, and the prevalence of diamonds and other gemstones. They capture a moment of historical transition, where the grandeur of the past met the innovations of the future, resulting in creations that are as timeless as they are exquisite.

For antique jewelry collectors and enthusiasts, understanding the distinctive features and historical context of Edwardian jewelry is crucial. Knowledge of the materials, craftsmanship, and design elements can help ensure that buyers invest in genuine, valuable, and historically significant jewelry that exudes authentically timeless style.

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When did the period begin? How long did the Edwardian Era last?

The Edwardian era officially began with the coronation of King Edward VII  Queen Victoria's reign had just ended, and King Edward VII took the throne in 1901. This period, aptly named the Edwardian era, lasted until the start of the First World War in 1914. However, the influence of Edwardian aesthetics began to take shape during the later years of Queen Victoria's reign — particularly as she retreated into prolonged mourning after the death of her husband, Prince Albert, in 1861.

As Edward, Prince of Wales, took on more public duties in the latter part of the 19th century, his penchant for opulence and high society permeated the cultural fabric. Having surrounded himself with aristrocracy, jewelry was an increasingly important part of his dress and lifestyle and his love of opulent design set the standard.

Chronologically, the Edwardian period sits comfortably between the robust, often sentimental Victorian jewelry and the bold, geometric designs of the Art Deco jewelry that followed in the 1920s; it overlaps with the larger Belle Époque movement of Europe and shares its spirit of optimism, innovation, and artistic expression.

What is the difference between Edwardian jewelry and styles from other periods?

Antique jewelry can be tricky to decipher, unless you’re looking with a trained eye. Through subtle differences, each era brought unique influences, materials, and design philosophies that reflect the cultural shifts of their times.

The Victorian Era was known for its sentimental and often elaborate designs, reflecting the social and cultural dynamics of the time. Victorian jewelry is divided into three distinct phases: The Romantic Period, The Grand Period or Mourning Period, and The Aesthetic Period. 

It is during this final phase of The Victorian Era that we begin to see a shift toward Edwardian influences. Jewelry featuring bright gemstones, lighter motifs, and more innovative designs rose in popularity during the late 1800s. At the turn of the century, jewelers were just beginning to experiment with platinum which enabled craftsmen to create intricate, lace-like designs that were both strong and delicate.

Edwardian pieces often featured motifs inspired by nature, such as flowers, garlands, and scrolls, rendered with a sense of ethereal grace. Diamonds were prominently used, typically set in platinum to maximize their brilliance. The overall design was one of sophistication and refinement, with an emphasis on airy, openwork patterns that embodied the optimism and artistic flourishing of the Belle Époque.

Following the Edwardian era, the Art Deco period brought a dramatic shift in style. Inspired by modernism and the machine age, Art Deco jewelry is characterized by bold, geometric designs and vibrant colors. This period saw the continued widespread use of materials like platinum and white gold, though vibrant colored gemstones became more common.

Which trends defined Edwardian jewelry style?
The staying power of Edwardian jewelry lies in the acclaimed jewelry houses who defined the era with names still renowned like Cartier, Tiffany & Co., and Faberge. Their designs commonly featured motifs including garlands, ribbons, bows, and floral patterns; they were often set in platinum with an abundance of diamonds and occasionally accented with colored gemstones like sapphires, emeralds, and pearls.

This innovative “white jewelry” that platinum ushered in was celebrated for its versatility and ability to seamlessly transition from day wear to elegant evening attire. Thanks to its durability and timeless style, platinum is perhaps the best metal for your most treasured pieces that are worn during all occasions such as engagement rings and wedding bands.

Is Edwardian jewelry rare? Is it valuable? Where can I find authentic Edwardian jewelry?

Despite a reign lasting only eight years, the jewelry produced under the reign of King Edward VII remains some of the most distinctive and sought after in recent memory. Edwardian jewelry holds significant value in the antique jewelry market thanks to its historical context, the quality of materials, and the intricate artistry involved in its creation.

Edwardian jewelry is renowned for its use of high-quality materials, particularly platinum, diamonds, and other precious stones forged into meticulous works of art. Because of wartime buy-back programs, platinum jewelry was often sold for scrap; few pieces of authentic Edwardian jewelry remain, adding to their desirability and value. 

While some of history's finest examples of Edwardian jewelry can be found in national museums and royal treasures from around the world, pieces can also be found in reputable auction houses as well as through specialized showrooms and dealers. 

With over 50 years of experience and hundreds of years of history in our showcases, Walton’s Jewelry has been proudly setting the standard for excellence in fine jewelry at our Downtown Franklin showroom. Located just outside of Nashville, our team of GIA trained professionals would be happy to assist you with finding the antique, vintage, or custom jewelry of your dreams. Stop by our showroom anytime during business hours or schedule a private appointment in-person or virtually.