Shop Lockets
Have you ever held a locket in your hand and wondered about the secrets it might hold? That piece of jewelry often carries more than just a photo or a strand of hair—it holds stories, memories, and emotions. Lockets have a unique ability to connect us to the past while remaining timelessly relevant, and their history is as rich as the emotions they safeguard.
But where did this unique piece of jewelry come from? How did it evolve from being a simple keepsake to a cherished symbol of remembrance?
The Origins: From Amulets to Intimate Tokens
Lockets didn't begin as jewelry meant for love or memory; they started as protective amulets. Back in ancient times, people believed certain objects could ward off evil spirits or bring good luck. These amulets were often small and portable, worn around the neck or hidden close to the body. It wasn't too big a leap for someone to say, "Hey, let's make this personal!" The shift from purely spiritual to sentimental began with adding personal symbols—like tiny carvings or inscriptions—inside these amulets.
The Ancient Egyptians were particularly fond of this idea, creating small wearable charms that they believed could protect them in the afterlife. The Greeks and Romans followed suit, often wearing small objects like lockets as talismans. These early forms of lockets were less about holding portraits or keepsakes and more about guarding one's spirit. However, as humans evolved, so did the meaning behind these little treasures.
6th-8th Century Amulet, gold, emeralds, & agate intaglio | Source: Wikimedia Commons
By the Middle Ages, the idea of placing meaningful, personal items inside jewelry began to take root in Europe. Lockets became more sentimental—something you could hold close to your heart (literally and figuratively). Still, they were mostly worn by the elite, signaling wealth, power, or even a royal favor.
The Renaissance: A Time of Sentimental Secrets
Fast forward to the Renaissance, and we see the locket becoming something much more than just an amulet. The 16th century was a time when love and courtship were often conducted through secretive means, and what better way to keep a romance under wraps than with a locket?
Locket with the Deaths of Pyramus and Thisbe, circa 1550 | According to the Roman writer Ovid (43 BC-AD 17), these young lovers each committed suicide thinking that the other had died. | Source: Wikimedia Commons
During this period, lockets were often commissioned by nobles and royalty as gifts. These weren't just any gifts, though. They held tokens of affection, love letters, or even locks of hair. Elizabethan lockets, for example, might have contained a miniature portrait of a lover or a family member, worn close to the heart—a tradition that is still carried on today.
One of the most famous examples is Queen Elizabeth I herself, who is said to have worn a locket ring that held a tiny portrait of her mother, Anne Boleyn, on one side and herself on the other. How’s that for keeping family close? It was a powerful symbol, speaking to her personal connection to her past and her role as England’s ruler.
Locket ring containing portraits of Elizabeth I and Anne Boleyn, c. 1575: The Chequers Trust
The Victorian Era: Mourning and Memory
While the Renaissance gave lockets their romantic flair, it was the Victorian era that truly cemented them as keepsakes of memory, often tied to mourning and remembrance. The Victorians had a thing for sentimentality, and nowhere was this more evident than in their jewelry. Queen Victoria herself played a massive role in popularizing the mourning locket. After her husband, Prince Albert, passed away in 1861, she wore a locket containing his hair and a photo of him for the rest of her life. This public display of grief struck a chord with the Victorian public, and mourning jewelry became a widespread practice.
Victorians 14K Yellow Gold, Onyx, Enamel, and Seed Pearl Mourning Locket Pendant | Walton's Jewelry
Lockets during this time were not just about grief, though. They also became vessels for personal connection, whether romantic or familial. Inside, you might find photographs (thanks to the growing popularity of photography), miniature paintings, or even small notes. Some lockets were intricately designed with detailed engravings, gemstones, and filigree, making them as much about beauty as they were about meaning.
Victorian 14K Yellow Gold Locket Bangle | Walton's Jewelry
Hairwork, the art of incorporating a loved one’s hair into jewelry, also took off during this time, and lockets were prime candidates for this personal touch. A lock of hair—either from a living loved one or someone who had passed—was carefully arranged inside the locket as a tangible reminder of their presence. It was like carrying a piece of someone’s soul with you.
Lockets weren’t just limited to mourning; they were often given as tokens of affection between lovers, with hidden compartments concealing personal notes or tokens. The act of wearing someone’s hair or image close to your heart was incredibly intimate and emotional, speaking volumes in an era where public displays of affection were rare.
Industrial Revolution: Lockets for Everyone
For most of history, lockets had been the luxury of the wealthy. After all, commissioning a handcrafted piece of jewelry wasn’t something everyone could afford. But the Industrial Revolution changed everything.
With advances in mass production techniques, jewelry—including lockets—became accessible to the everyday person. Machines could now replicate intricate designs at a fraction of the cost, making it possible for the middle and working classes to own their very own lockets. Suddenly, a sentimental item like a locket wasn’t just for royals or the upper class; it became a universal symbol of love, memory, and connection.
Photography played a huge role in this change, too. As family portraits became more common, people loved the idea of keeping a tiny version of their loved one’s image inside a locket.
It was also during this time that lockets expanded in design. While classic heart-shaped lockets were still popular, other shapes—like ovals, circles, and even flowers—started popping up, reflecting the wearer’s personality or style. Lockets became a must-have accessory, whether worn on a necklace, bracelet, or even tucked inside a pocket.
The 20th Century: Lockets Through the Wars
Lockets took on a particularly poignant role during the early 20th century, especially during the World Wars. Soldiers going off to war often carried lockets as reminders of the loved ones they left behind, and those at home wore lockets with photographs or mementos of the soldiers they hoped would return. In a world where communication was limited and separation felt permanent, lockets became lifelines—tiny symbols of hope and love during incredibly uncertain times.
Unidentified soldier in Union uniform in locket, between 1861 and 1865 | Source: Wikimedia Commons
Lockets of the early 20th century were often simple in design, reflecting the somber mood of wartime. However, they were no less powerful. Some lockets even contained messages written in code or secret compartments, making them as much a tool of espionage as a personal keepsake.
In the post-war period, as family life resumed and technology evolved, lockets continued to hold their place as cherished items of personal jewelry. They became a popular gift for significant life events—like weddings, anniversaries, and births. With the rise of fashion trends in the latter half of the century, lockets also became part of the fashion-forward accessory game, available in a variety of styles, materials, and designs.
***
Today, lockets are more popular than ever. They remain a favorite for their timeless appeal, but designs have also introduced new, creative spins on the traditional form.
One of the enduring appeals of the locket is its ability to hold meaning. While the ways we share memories have evolved—hello, Instagram!—there’s something uniquely special about carrying a private memory in a locket, close to your heart, where only you (or a chosen few) can see it. It’s a piece of jewelry that goes beyond ornamentation.
14K Yellow Gold Oval, Round, and Heart-Shaped Lockets | Walton's Jewelry
From ancient amulets to modern innovations, the locket has never been just another piece of jewelry. It’s a tiny time capsule, a container of emotion and memory that speaks to our deepest human desires to connect, remember, and cherish. Through wars, loves, and losses, lockets have remained steadfast—always evolving, yet always holding the same essential meaning: to keep what matters close to our hearts.
