Retro, Vintage, and Modern diamond and gemstone cuts, emerging after the turn of the century, illustrate a transformative period in the art of jewelry making—one shaped by technological innovation and new possibilities.
The Industrial Revolution forever changed diamond and gemstone cutting, transitioning from laborious handcrafting to more efficient and precise mechanical processes appearing as early as the Art Deco era. While all cuts created during or after the 20th century benefit from mechanical advances in stone cutting, there’s a significant shift that occurs after the mid-century invention of computer-aided design (CAD) and laser processes seen in truly Modern jewelry. Along with the advances in stone cutting technology, breakthroughs in mining techniques allowed for greater stone variety, size, and consistency – all of which contributed to the creation of more standardized and sophisticated cuts.
The last 100 years of gemstone cutting reflect a dynamic evolution in jewelry artistry where each piece tells a story of innovation, craftsmanship, and the ever-evolving pursuit of beauty in jewelry design.
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18K Yellow Gold 3.50ct Round Brilliant Cut Diamond Ring | Walton's Jewelry
Round Brilliant Cut
Evolving from the Old European and Old Mine Cuts, Round Brilliant Cut was first conceived of by Marcel Tolkowsky as the mathematically correct way to maximize a diamond’s sparkle and were produced as early as the 1920s and remains the most popular modern cut since. It has a circular shape with 58 facets designed to best showcase the play of light and fire of the diamond or gemstone.
14K White Gold GIA 1.00ct Cushion Cut Diamond Ring | Walton's Jewelry
Cushion Cut
As the name would suggest, the Cushion Cut combines a gently sloping “squoval” with rounded corners in a way that resembles a pillow. A true descendant of the Old Mine Cut, the Cushion Cut’s larger facets provide a romantic, vintage vibe that exudes Victorian era charm with exceptional brilliance thanks to modern refinements and technology that allow for significantly greater precision than its antique hand-cut counterpart.
14K White Gold GIA 1.49ct Radiant Cut Diamond | Walton's Jewelry
Radiant Cut
Driven by a demand for more square and rectangular cuts while capturing the highest standard of sparkle,the Radiant Cut features a rectangular diamond or gemstone with beveled corners cropped at a 45 degree angle. This clever faceting of the corners increases the brilliance and fire of the Radiant Cut, making it an exceptional choice for engagement rings.
14K Yellow Gold Princess Cut and Round Brilliant Cut Diamond Ring | Walton's Jewelry
Princess Cut
A slightly different take on the sleek, symmetrical lines that were achieved in Modern Jewelry, the Princess Cut features pointed corners and an inverted pyramid shape at its profile. Requiring modern machining to achieve its exceptional brilliance and symmetry, the Princess Cut was not developed until the 1960s and has only grown in popularity since – especially among unconventional brides.
14K White Gold 1.51ct Marquise Cut Diamond Halo Ring | Walton's Jewelry
Standard Fancy Cuts
While there were certainly hand-faceted versions of these cuts, many fancy cuts including the Oval Cut, Marquis Cut, and Pear Cut were standardized during the latter half of the 20th century. These distinctive and elongated shapes create an elegant look while maximizing the carat weight and sparkle of your diamond or gemstone thanks to the facet mapping made possible by the development of the Round Brilliant Cut.
These diamond cuts each have their own unique stories, influenced by historical events, technological advancements, and the evolving tastes and preferences of jewelry collectors throughout the eras. From royal commissions to everyday innovations, the journey of these diamond and gemstone cuts reflects the rich tapestry of jewelry history. With over 50 years of experience and many more decades represented in our showroom, our team of fully GIA-trained experts have curated and custom designed countless fine jewelry pieces from antique, vintage, and modern eras.
