When you think of gemstones, the ones that likely come to mind are the sparkly, well-known crowd-pleasers like diamonds, rubies, or sapphires...
But let's take a moment to dive into the rich, mysterious world of chalcedony and its cousins—onyx, sardonyx, agate, carnelian, bloodstone, chrysoprase, and bloodstone. These gems may not sparkle in the same way as some of their more glamorous counterparts, but their charm is undeniable, with a history steeped in culture, myth, and fascinating uses in jewelry over the centuries.
Chalcedony Portrait Bust of a Young Woman, ca. A.D. 130-140 | Source: Wikimedia Commons
Chalcedony, the "parent" stone in this family, is a form of quartz, but unlike the more familiar clear quartz crystals, chalcedony is a microcrystalline variety, meaning its crystal structure is so fine that it’s only visible under a microscope. It has a smooth, waxy luster and comes in a range of colors, from blues and grays to browns and reds.
Victorian Chalcedony Watch Key | Walton's Jewelry
In ancient times, people wore chalcedony as amulets, believing it could protect them from harm, ward off evil spirits, and even improve communication. Whether carved into seals, beads, or protective talismans, chalcedony was a popular stone for artisans in Mesopotamia and Egypt. Its ability to be easily shaped and polished made it an ideal medium for carving delicate patterns, and it soon found its way into important artifacts, jewelry, and religious items.
Agate, a banded form of chalcedony, was also popular during this time, admired for its layers of contrasting colors. Romans and Greeks would carve intaglios—an engraving technique in which images were carved into the surface of the stone—using agate to create seals and signet rings.
Victorian Etruscan Revival Banded Agate and Enamel Brooch/Pendant | Walton's Jewelry
Estate 10K Gold, Diamond, and Onyx Ring | Walton's Jewelry
Onyx: Power and Elegance in Antiquity
Onyx, with its black or banded appearance, became especially popular in Greek and Roman times. The stone's versatility allowed for detailed carvings and intaglios. Roman elites wore onyx signet rings, which were pressed into wax to seal important documents. Sardonyx, a reddish-brown variation of onyx, was particularly valued for signet rings due to its hardness, and Roman soldiers believed it brought courage in battle.
Victorian 14K Yellow Gold, Sardonyx Cameo, and Pearl Ring | Walton's Jewelry
The Middle Ages: Chalcedony as a Symbol of Faith
In the Middle Ages, chalcedony took on religious significance. Bloodstone, a dark green variety with red spots, was linked to the blood of Christ and used in crucifixes and rosaries. Many believed that chalcedony stones held protective and healing powers, and they became a common feature in religious artifacts.
Chalcedony's subtle beauty and association with spirituality made it a popular choice for ecclesiastical art. Monks and priests would use chalcedony in their prayer beads and religious carvings, imbuing their daily practices with what they believed were the stone's calming and protective powers.
The Victorian Era: Sentimentality and Mourning Jewelry
The Victorian era saw a resurgence in the use of onyx and sardonyx, especially in mourning jewelry after the death of Prince Albert. Black onyx became synonymous with grief, used in somber lockets, brooches, and rings. Cameo carving also thrived during this time, with sardonyx cameos depicting classical portraits and symbols of love, memory, and nature. This period valued intricate designs, and the contrast between sardonyx's layers lent itself beautifully to these sentimental pieces.
Victorian 14K Yellow Gold Carnelian Intaglio Pendant | Walton's Jewelry
Beyond mourning jewelry, chalcedony's other varieties also enjoyed popularity during the Victorian era. Carnelian, with its rich red tones, was commonly used in signet rings and pendants, while chrysoprase added a soft, green glow to delicate brooches and earrings.
Platinum GIA 1.35ct Paraiba Tourmaline, Diamond, and Onyx Ring | Walton's Jewelry
Modern Uses and Vintage Revival
In recent years, there's been a resurgence in the popularity of these gemstones. People are drawn to their unique character and history, and they offer a more affordable alternative to the high-end gems like diamonds and emeralds.
You might notice onyx making appearances in men’s jewelry as well. Its bold, dark aesthetic gives it a masculine edge, making it a popular choice for signet rings, cufflinks, and even watches. Meanwhile, sardonyx’s warm tones and historical appeal make it a favorite for lovers of antique and vintage-style jewelry. Carnelian is also frequently used in vintage designs, thanks to its warm, earthy tones, while chrysoprase adds a fresh, green pop to contemporary pieces.
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The chalcedony family, including onyx and sardonyx, may not always be the first stones that come to mind when we think of gemstones, but their rich history and timeless beauty make them unforgettable. Whether found in a modern pendant or an antique cameo, chalcedony, onyx, and sardonyx continue to captivate us, telling stories that span centuries.
