Victorian jewelry offers a unique glimpse into the past, where each piece tells a story, not just about the person who wore it, but about the society, culture, and emotions of the time. As we explore the history of Victorian jewelry, we'll uncover how these adornments were influenced by Queen Victoria's reign, the technological advancements of the period, and the sentimental values that Victorians held dear. By the end, you'll see how these intricate creations were powerful expressions of personal identity, deep love, and remembrance.
A Brief Look at the Victorian Era
The Victorian era spanned from 1837 to 1901, named after Queen Victoria, who reigned over the British Empire during this time. Now, Queen Victoria wasn't just any monarch; she was a trendsetter in the truest sense. Her tastes and personal milestones shaped the fashion, art, and jewelry of the time.
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Portrait of Queen Victoria in her coronation robes by Franz Xaver Winterhalter, 1859.
Think of the Victorian era as a story with three distinct chapters, each reflecting different phases of Queen Victoria's life: the Early Victorian (or Romantic) period, the Mid-Victorian (or Grand) period, and the Late Victorian (or Aesthetic) period.
These periods were characterized by unique styles, materials, and sentiments that influenced design and symbolism of the jewelry worn by women and men alike.
The Romantic Era (1837-1860): A Time of Love and Sentiment
When you think of Romance, the early Victorian period should come to mind. This was a time when love was celebrated openly, and the jewelry from this period reflects that sentiment beautifully. Queen Victoria's marriage to Prince Albert in 1840 sparked a wave of romanticism that rippled through society, influencing the design of everything from architecture to, you guessed it, jewelry.
Victorian Amethyst and Seed Pearl Pendant | Walton's Jewelry
Love and Nature Intertwined
Jewelry from this era often features symbols of love and nature. Imagine delicate lockets engraved with initials or hearts, often holding a lock of hair from a loved one. Flowers, leaves, and even serpents were popular motifs, symbolizing eternal love and loyalty. Yes, serpents! Before you start thinking of slithery things, know that in Victorian times, serpents were seen as symbols of eternity. Prince Albert even gifted Queen Victoria a snake-shaped engagement ring, which was highly symbolic of their unending love.
10th February 1840: Queen Victoria (1819 - 1901) and Prince Albert (1819 - 1861) on their return from the marriage service at St James's Palace, London. Original Artwork: Engraved by S Reynolds after F Lock. | Source: Hulton Archive/Getty Images - Original engraving from 1840
Materials and Technique
Gold was the material of choice, and it was often molded into intricate designs using repoussé (a technique that involves hammering the metal into a pattern from the reverse side). This gave jewelry a textured, almost three-dimensional look that added to its allure. Seed pearls, garnets, and turquoise were commonly used gemstones, adding color and symbolism to each piece. Seed pearls, for example, symbolized purity and were often used in bridal jewelry.
The Grand Era (1860-1885): Mourning and the Majesty of the Empire
The mid-Victorian period was marked by significant events, both personal and societal. Queen Victoria's beloved Prince Albert passed away in 1861, plunging the queen—and by extension, much of the nation—into deep mourning. This period saw a shift in the jewelry style, reflecting the somber mood of the time.
Victorian 18K Yellow Gold Mourning Brooch with Hair | Walton's Jewelry
Mourning Jewelry
Mourning jewelry became the hallmark of this era. Dark materials like jet (a type of fossilized wood), onyx, and black enamel were often combined with gold, creating pieces that were both beautiful and deeply symbolic of grief and loss. Lockets with hair or miniature portraits of the deceased were common, serving as a personal keepsake that allowed the wearer to carry their memory with them.
Victorian 15K Black Jade and Seed Pearl Bangle Bracelet | Walton's Jewelry
While mourning jewelry was prevalent, it wasn't the only style of the time. The Victorian Empire was expanding, and with it came an influx of exotic materials and influences. Jewelry began to incorporate designs inspired by ancient civilizations and distant lands. A cultural fusion was happening, where motifs from Egyptian, Etruscan, and even Indian art found their way into Victorian designs.
Victorian Etruscan Revival Locket | Walton's Jewelry
Gold continued to be a dominant material, but it was often combined with other elements like coral, amethyst, and diamonds. The jewelry from this period was grand, reflecting the wealth and power of the Britist Empire. Brooches, necklaces, and bracelets became larger and more ornate, often featuring detailed engravings and intricate patterns.
By Andre-Adolphe-Eugene Disderi A cabinet card sized woodburytype of Queen Victoria, 1870. | Source: Wikimedia Commons
The Aesthetic Era (1885-1901): Art for Art's Sake
As the Victorian era drew to a close, there was a shift in the way people viewed art and beauty. The late Victorian period, also known as the Aesthetic Movement, was all about for art's sake. This was a time when people began to appreciate the beauty of an object, not just for its symbolic meaning, but for its artistic value.
The jewelry from this period reflects a move towards simplicity and elegance. Gone were the heavy, ornate pieces of the past. Instead, jewelry designers began to focus on clean lines, natural motifs, and the use of lighter materials. Silver became popular, as did the use of gemstones like sapphires, opals, and peridots. The designs were often inspired by nature, with flowers, birds, and insects being popular motifs. It was as if jewelry had come full circle, returning to the nature-inspired designs of the early Victorian period, but with a more refined and artistic approach.
Circa 1880, Silver-Topped 18K Yellow Gold, Pink Sapphire, Old Mine Cut Diamond, and Enamel Orchid Brooch | Walton's Jewelry
Victorian Silver-Topped Gold Old Mine Cut Diamond Earrings | Walton's Jewelry
The Influence of Art Nouveau
The Aesthetic Movement also overlapped with the Art Nouveau movement, which was characterized by flowing lines and organic shapes. This influence can be seen in the jewelry of the time, with pieces that featured sinuous curves, intricate enamel work, and a focus on craftsmanship. It was a celebration of beauty for its own sake, and the jewelry of this period reflects that ethos perfectly.
Victorian Old Mine Cut Diamond and Enamel Ring | Walton's Jewelry
Techniques, Symbolism, and Social Impact
Throughout the Victorian era, jewelry making underwent significant evolution, driven by technilogical advancements and a growing demand for accesible luxury. Innovations like electroplating allowed jewelers to create affordable pieces that retained the appearance of high-end craftsmanship, making stylish adornments accesible to the burgeoning middle class. At the same time, advancements in gem cutting and setting techniques, such as the brilliant cut and the use of prongs and bezels, enhanced the sparkle and presentation of gemstones, making jewelry even more visually striking.
Victorian jewelry was also rich in symbolism, often serving as memento mori—reminders of mortality—through motifs like skulls, skeletons, and hourglasses. These symbols were subtly integrated into designs, offering poignant reflections on the fragility of life. Beyond aesthetics, jewelry played a crucial role in Victorian society as a marker of status, wealth, and personal identity. Birthstones became popular, and engagement and wedding rings grew more common, symbolizing love and commitment. Ultimately, Victorian jewelry was a powerful means of personal expression, allowing individuals to communicate their tastes, beliefs, and emotions—whether through the mourning of a loved one or the playful, whimsical designs that reflected the lighter aspects of life during this era.
Victorian Citrine and Diamond Necklace | Walton's Jewelry
Victorian jewelry has left a lasting mark on the world of fashion and design. Even today, the influence of Victorian styles can be seen in modern jewelry, with designers drawing inspiration from the patterns, sentimental motifs, and elegant forms of the past.
Moreover, Victorian jewelry is a testament to the enduring power of symbolism and sentimentality in art. These piece are a window into the values, emotions, and lives of the people who wore them. They remind us that jewelry is not just about dressing up; its about telling a story—one that continues to captivate us, even centuries later.
So, whether you're a seasoned collector or just someone who appreciates the beauty of a well-crafted piece, Victorian jewelry offers a connection to a bygone era where every ring, brooch, and necklace was made with care, intention, and a whole lot of love. And isn't that what makes them so timelessly beautiful?
