Model with display of costume jewelry, 1947 -  Sydney, Australia // Source: Wikimedia Commons

One of the most fascinating things about costume jewelry is that its relationship with fine jewelry has never been entirely one-directional.

The word “costume” did not always mean what we think of today. In fashion history, it simply referred to a person's clothing, their overall manner of dress. Costume jewelry, then, was jewelry made to go with an outfit. It was designed to complete an ensemble, create a particular look, or make a fashionable statement without relying on gold, platinum, or natural gemstones.

Explore our visual guide to antique jewelry.

Necklace with Butterfly Pendant (gold, amethyst, chalcedony, emerald, rock crystal, pearl, and colored glass); late 2nd-1st century BC // Source: Wikimedia Commons

No single material, style, or period defines it. Over the centuries, the category has often included pieces made with base metals, glass, imitation gemstones, faux pearls, or enamel. Its history stretches back far longer than most people realize.

So the real distinction is not simply whether a stone is “real” or whether costume jewelry is “fake”. Costume jewelry belongs to a different material and design tradition. A glass stone is not a fake diamond any more than a watercolor is a fake oil painting. It is a different material, used intentionally, to achieve a particular artistic effect. And sometimes, that effect is the whole point.

The oversized scale, vivid color, dramatic sparkle, playful imitation, and unexpected materials in costume jewelry can achieve what would be impractical or prohibitively expensive with diamonds and fine gemstones. That is a large part of its charm. A beautifully made brooch set with colored glass may have little value in its material and still carry real artistic, historical, and collectible significance.

For much of its history, less expensive jewelry could imitate the appearance of more valuable pieces. Glass stones, paste, imitation pearls, and other materials allowed fashionable silhouettes and elaborate designs to become accessible to a wider audience.

Read more on the history of glass in jewelry.

Set of Man's Coat and Waistcoat Buttons with Case; Germany, circa 1805 // Source: Wikimedia Commons

But eventually, costume jewelry began doing something more interesting: it developed its own visual language.

Costume jewelry became especially popular in the United States during the Depression and post–World War II period, when women sought ways to remain fashionable while being more economical. These pieces often emulated expensive jewelry, but sometimes the influence traveled in the opposite direction, with costume jewelry itself inspiring high-fashion design.

So the next time you encounter the phrase costume jewelry, think beyond the word costume.

Think fashion. Think experimentation. Think clever materials, changing silhouettes, influential designers, and jewelry created to participate in the way people dressed and expressed themselves.

Fine jewelry and costume jewelry occupy different places within the history of adornment, but both can tell us something remarkable about the people who wore them and the eras in which they lived. After all, the true pleasure of collecting antique and vintage jewelry isn't simply knowing what something is made of. It is understanding why it was made, who wore it, and what its design tells us about its time.

At Walton’s Jewelry, we have more than 50 years of experience serving Historic Downtown Franklin and the greater Nashville community. Each member of our team has trained at The Gemological Institute of America and has a deep passion for preserving the history and beauty of antique jewelry. Whether you are a Tennessee local looking to stop by our showroom or prefer to view our selection virtually, we invite you to explore our newest arrivals and reach out with any questions you may have.